Master of Opposition
It may be the busiest day of Milano fashion week. As we were running from one show to the other, feeling the mood, humming along to the song playing in the background, we found ourselves in the middle of an irresistable show. Drama, passion, heroism, romanticism….
We had gotten used to watching frigid and almost dull Prada shows which used the power of space and attitude of clothes to put on a show…This time it was different… Four years ago, I remember feeling the same way when I saw the red carpet covering this big space. I’m talking about the 2012 Prada show which was closed by Adrian Brody, Tim Roth, Gary Oldman and Willem Dafoe. I was wrong to think that there couldn’t be more to that.
Yes! This time it was very different. We found ourselves in a chipboard model of and inquisition court with balconies and lodges. The invitations in the form of notebooks made sense at that moment. Then the sound of the violin and Kylie Minogue came in: ‘They call me a wild rose but my name is Elisa Day…’ Scruffy sailors wearing little sailor hats, dark blue double-breasted jackets and cloaks began to walk. It took time to leave the magic of the atmosphere and focus on the costume-like designs. The girlfriends walked behind the sailors. Their looks were as striking as the youngster males.
Blouses with open collars and prints looked magical under traditional sailor jackets made from waxed denim, cloaks and coats. The waxed denims looked like old clothing covered with tar. On the prints of the blouses were mythical beings of the sea like beautiful women, gods and monsters. Every textile created a feeling of urged to touch them. Clas- sical Prada pieces were going through a renaissance with textiles like leather and denim…
The next day of the show when I had a chance to look at the collection up close and personal, the hand knitted cardigans that looked as if they were patched gained more value for me. It is impossible not to be struck by the blouses which capture you in a story because of their prints. Pasolini, Che Guevara, Sigmund Freud wrestling with classical figures or a sailor kissing his lover… Prints on the blouses are the works of young artist Christophe Chemin… I wouldn’t be exaggerating when I say the collection multiplies as you come closer. Leather accessories, shoes with buckles, tassels and thick heels, belts without buckles, big key chains on the belts.. Mostly the notebooks hanging on the belts! Different combinations with these repeated accessories are the signature pieces of this collection. It looks like the leather accessories will take the lead this season for shoes, bags, belts and notebooks. All these details transfer you to the real story of the show; today any of us can become nomads. Miuccia Prada reminded us once more that fashion is not isolated from its time like a cocoon or an ivory tower made for a bunch of people. Among this fairy tale, the message inspired by the wretched time we are in is ‘having to be a mapper and mandatory nomad in this quite war.’
We watched a show in awe due to the product, the look, the environment and the sensitivity. With all due respect, I take the courage to speak for all of us when I say these things because of the persisting applauses at the end of the show.