I’ve always really admired craftwork and even as a child I loved working with my hands, especially if it was something really detailed and time-consuming. I love science fiction and r&b music and I love Elizabethan history and I love being in water – I go swimming every day.
Slowly, but quite organically. In retrospect it seems like a big jump between those different chapters of my life in Oxford, London, New York and Iceland, but at the time it always felt like a natural progression. I’ve been pretty good at letting my instincts lead the way, so I try to listen when life decides to point me in one direction, rather than fight it or ignore it.
About 4 years ago I moved to a tiny cabin on a hill by a lake in Iceland. I had been living between New York and Reykjavik for some years before that, but always dreamt about living out in the countryside – somewhere remote but still close enough to drive into a big town when I started going mad. It was the best thing I ever did. To live surrounded by moss and birds and silence and light…. but with really fast Wi-Fi. There’s something so futuristic about being able to have both: a windswept isolated domestic life but with all the connections and excitement of digital / online stuff.
I think the reason why we have been able to collaborate for so long (9 years this May) is because she always allows space for things to evolve and stay fluid, nothing stagnates – so as I’ve grown as a person and artist she has really nurtured that and been up for redefining it as we go. I feel very lucky for that indeed. Each project I’ve worked on has been so different from the one before (Biophilia, Vulnicura, Utopia) that it’s always an exciting shape-shift between albums – I’m just still honoured to be invited along for the ride really.
With the headpieces, I am usually trying to help express quite a specific aesthetic or mood, so it can definitely be challenging to get that right – to tap into someone else’s inner world and help them express it outwardly. But I guess the challenge of it is also the appeal for me. Putting something on your face is so extreme and so personal (much more so than most other items of costume) it has to be 100% right or it just doesn’t work. Luckily, over the years we’ve developed a really telepathic shorthand – we don’t have to say that much but we both know instinctively what’s going to work or not.
I wanted to try and work with silicone for those pieces, as it just seemed to fit the direction that Björk was steering the visuals at the time – whereas my previous headpieces had been quite biological, embroidered or built from wire/plastic, the Utopia ones needed something more anatomical, orchid-like, alien. We were in LA at the time, and I went and bought a load of clay and silicone and just began sculpting. I didn’t actually plan or realize how sexual they looked until later, at the time I was quite innocently just thinking about orchids…
Each video is usually its own unique puzzle and collaboration with a particular director, so it is hard to generalise – but I guess one unifying feature is that the visual starting point usually begins with a specific set of references, ideas, textures, colours etc. that Björk instinctively feels around that particular song or album. Those are the seeds that are sown, and then other things will grow from them as part of a back and forth with a particular director. But in general, that is the starting point and then each one finds its own way to fruition, the process is a little different every time.
I’ve been pretty good at letting my instincts lead the way, so I try to listen when life decides to point me in one direction, rather than fight it or ignore it.
I kind of like fantasizing about a planet without / after humans… with no self-appointed superior consciousness, where nature is allowed to just run its own course totally undisturbed in the company of itself.
I want to try and do something with machine embroidery this year. So far I’ve done everything by hand, just a needle and thread. But I’m keen to see if there is some weird idiosyncratic way I can get my head around embroidering with a machine. I’m pretty excited to start exploring that a bit more this spring.