Sometimes Dark and Vamp, Sometimes Plasticky and Manga: Giuliano Calza

FashionMarch 26, 2023
Sometimes Dark and Vamp, Sometimes Plasticky and Manga: Giuliano Calza

We know and love Giuliano Calza for his creative designs and unique perspective. With that, the rise and evolution of GCDS in the fashion world cannot be ignored. His passion for fashion design met with his love for popular culture and birthed this journey of self-discovery. Growing with his brand since 2015, Calza hopes to open a window to new worlds with each collection. We asked Giuliano, when we caught him during a trip to Istanbul, what we were curious about him and GCDS, and of course, Istanbul’s street style.

Let’s start from the beginning. GCDS- what was your starting point and how do you feel about it now? Tell us about your brand.

Giuliano Calza: GCDS stands for Giuliano Calza Design Studio: Street attitude and explosive style, along with Italian quality and savoir-faire. These are the foundation of a continually-evolving aesthetic that celebrates the beauty of uniqueness through play, color and irony. Thanks to imaginative, irreverent capsule collections; GCDS has drawn a large pop community of international celebrities and icons that identify with its free and inclusive universe. Having asserted itself as one of the most interesting voices in contemporary fashion, the brand has consolidated a strong presence in Italy and Asia, with numerous stores, and is developing an ambitious expansion project in Europe and the United States. An international vocation with profoundly Italian roots: GCDS clothing and accessories are made in Italy by local craftspeople and selected first-rate manufacturers in a virtuous circle that enhances and modernizes the concept of “made in Italy.”

What was your first memory of fashion?

Giuliano Calza: I remember it all started when I was very young like 5 or 6 and my mum introduced me to her best friend who was a Cartoonist and we designed Donald Duck and Disney princess.  The idea of creation was ignited in me, a paper and a pen were enough for me. Later then in my hometown Napoli, my dad took me to an Andy Warhol exhibition and I had these flowers and personalities stuck in my mind, opening me. The idea of windows on other worlds. My very first job in fashion was assisting stylist on set then I tried everything and went through packing and endless nights of shoots, castings and rejections.. It all paid me back. 

How would you sum up the aesthetic of your brand and does it resonate with your style?

Giuliano Calza: It is my style! I literally grew up with this brand, and I think what you see today is it one of the most complete and coherent collection I’ve ever imagined. It’s a mix of irony and loudness with the soft classy delicacy of made in Italy. 

Nicola Peltz Beckham for GCDS

What is one trend you wish would come back?

Giuliano Calza: If I could live again an era of the past and a specific style I do really wish we could go back to a Louis XVI kinda style, very opulent  embellished clothes, heavy and voluminous. 

For the past few years, Y2K fashion is living its revival era. What’s your favorite trend from it?

Giuliano Calza: My favorite trend from the Y2K is definitely PINK-core, the excess of pink it’s never a problem.

And what is a big NO for you – among the current fashion trends?

Giuliano Calza: I’m generally a fan of fashion, that’s what make me love happy in this industry. I don’t have big NO, I think everything is doable with the right styling or attitude. 

In a few words, what does “luxury” mean to you?

Giuliano Calza: If we are talking of Luxury related to clothes, to me it’s connect to the timing. How long it takes to produce and how long is gonna lasts. I dedicate so much time to making clothes that I frequently think of how precious some garments  are. 

In terms of emotions..good things, relationship, love stories and books.. take time too! 

What was your most iconic piece from GCDS?

Giuliano Calza: For me it’s the Morso shoes! The one I love the most and still today they make me excited when I see them. 

“Thanks to imaginative, irreverent capsule collections; GCDS has drawn a large pop community of international celebrities and icons that identify with its free and inclusive universe.’

– Giuliano Calza

Giuliano Calza: I loved Sophia Loren, for becoming a part of one of my campaigns. Beyoncé on Vogue UK in my favorite look.. or the items no one believe in that ended up on magazines and covers! 

How would you describe Istanbul’s street-style?

Giuliano Calza: It’s eclectic. Very similar to Naples, the city where I’m from.

What does an ordinary day look like at GCDS HQ?

Giuliano Calza: Lots of fun. Intense working but there’s a very relaxed energy that makes it the best place to work. I truly enjoy waking up and going to the office. I mostly divide my time between design and marketing/ PR. My office actually divides this two huge parts of the office! 

A tip for those who find the courage to brand their designs?

Giuliano Calza: Be kind to you and your work. It takes time and lots of energy. If you do believe in your ideas, everyone will follow, it’s a work on the outside but also a work to understand yourself.

Your latest collection consists of many different fabrics and materials. Can you talk more about the tactile process you have with the garments?

Giuliano Calza: It all starts from the fabrics. I usually wants to reach an overall vibe with the collection. Sometimes is dark and vamp, sometimes is plasticky and manga. This was about the texture of my house, I usually choose things that visually gonna be well coordinated and that will have a good performance for the shapes I wanna create. 

What is your favorite piece from your latest collection?

Giuliano Calza: It might be the white boots with the stripper heels or the new heart bag! 

Where do you see yourself in a decade? What’s the fantasy?

Giuliano Calza: I hope married with a couple of kids, possibly a farm house with a cow to host my friends and maybe doing something so precise and artisanal that I can work on it for months! 

Who is your muse? – not an all time muse, just recently – it would be great to Define happiness. answer with an image.

Giuliano Calza: While designing this show and working on it, I knew DUA was coming and I was really excited cause she’s my best friend and we usually spend hours talking about creativity and our projects, so I was thinking of her as my muse.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

Giuliano Calza: “That’s very cute”

Which talent would you most like to have?

Giuliano Calza: I think would be great to know how to act.

What is your favorite Turkish food?

Giuliano Calza: Dolma, with lots of lemon. 

An essential piece from your wardrobe?

Giuliano Calza: My GCDS Capri baseball hat.

What is the lock screen on your phone?

Giuliano Calza: It’s the setting from my show. It almost looks unrealistic.

Your last discovery on Spotify?

Giuliano Calza:

Can you share a behind the scenes photo from your collection with us? (Process, runway, sketches, planning. Anything!)

Giuliano Calza:

Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images

Can you share your favorite photo you took in İstanbul?

Author: Duygu Bengi

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