Alessandro Michele’s Grand Return: Valentino’s Spring Summer ’25 Collection, ‘Pavillon des Folies’

The fashion world collectively exhaled as Alessandro Michele returned to the runway, unveiling his much-anticipated debut for Valentino’s Spring Summer ’25 collection, aptly named ‘Pavillon des Folies.’ Known for his unparalleled flair for elegance and maximalism, Michele seamlessly infused his signature aesthetic into Valentino’s DNA, reminding us all of the power of beauty and the joy of dressing up.

Having departed Gucci in late 2023, Michele’s re-entry into the fashion fold was eagerly awaited, and his first live runway show did not disappoint. Held in a setting that recalled an opulent French salon, the runway itself was dimly lit, creating an ambiance that mirrored the romantic and slightly decadent spirit of the collection. This debut felt like an homage to eras gone by — from the Jazz Age of the roaring ’20s to the swinging ’60s, blending these inspirations into a modern take on glamour.

Michele’s opening question, “What is beauty anyway?” set the tone for an exploration that unfolded with every look that glided down the runway. Models appeared in an array of sumptuous fabrics — silk gowns adorned with delicate beading, feather-trimmed hems, and drop-waist dresses that whispered of old Hollywood sophistication. There was a sense of nostalgia, but Michele, in his genius, made it feel fresh and contemporary.

As guests like Harry Styles, Hari Nef, and Elton John looked on, the collection’s message became increasingly clear: beauty is a joyful act, a defiant stand against the fleeting nature of life. “In this perspective, beauty can represent a remedy for the anguish that arises from the ephemeral and undetermined nature of our destiny,” Michele expressed in his show notes. “An anchor to navigate within that pavillon des folies we call life.”

Accessories took the spotlight in this collection, as Michele masterfully proved that embracing excess can be truly captivating Bold, collarbone-skimming earrings, intricate facial jewelry, and dramatic hats emphasized that fashion is meant to be anything but understated. Face-framing veils added a touch of mystery, further enhancing the collection’s opulent, salon-inspired style.

Yet, amid the lavishness and embellishments, Michele didn’t stray far from Valentino’s storied history. Signature elements like the house’s iconic Valentino red, accordion collars, and oversized bows were present, seamlessly blended with his vision for a new era. Floor-sweeping chiffon and an abundance of glamour signaled a shift, pointing towards the future while paying homage to the past.

Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino was not just a return; it was a statement — a declaration that beauty, in all its forms, remains the ultimate arbiter of joy. As we look ahead, one thing is certain: Michele’s journey with Valentino has just begun, and we’ll be watching every step of the way.