ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AW’24 – I Do Not Want What I Haven’t Got

The range featured a remarkable display of textural magic. The lustrous black laminated jersey on the asymmetrically draped dresses shimmered in the light, creating a fluid look that contrasted with the sturdy construction of the fitted coats with T-bar chain detailing.

McGirr’s use of black wool mohair embellished with crushed jet stone embroidery, paired with cozy shearling vests, demonstrated his expert craftsmanship – a fusion of precise tailoring and luxurious textures. The work here is characterized by its precise structure and creative tailoring, which is clearly visible. However, it takes a different direction that captures the unique essence of McQueen. While there is still a focus on knitwear and form, there is now a thematic narrative that embodies the raw and wild spirit that McQueen has always been known for.

Many pieces in the collection had an enveloping feel, from the oversized padded collars of shearling coats to the belted waists of raincoats in brown and black leather. The hats in the collection, such as the fedoras with arc logo sliders, were more than just accessories – they were essential elements that finished each outfit, emphasized the concept of envelopment and paid homage to the classic British silhouette, impressing the stylish audience. 

McGirr revolutionized embellishment by incorporating embedded objects into garments, giving them a sculptural quality that was both literal and metaphorical. This was most evident in a dress embroidered with statues in ecru tufted wool and shearling, where the fabric served as a unique canvas for sculptural elements.

The show’s backdrop, dubbed an “industrial forest,” perfectly reflected the collection’s mix of natural and industrial aspects. The contrast of acid-yellow wool grass bales against a draped parachute backdrop echoed the collection’s mix of natural themes and industrial touches, setting the mood for McGirr’s story of raw, uninhibited and industrial luxury.

People are excited to see how McGirr’s unique designs will blend with McQueen’s rich history of pushing the boundaries of fashion with bold thematic storytelling.