Beneath the iconic glass roof of the Nef, CHANEL made a triumphant return to the Grand Palais, a venue closely tied to the brand’s legacy, with its main entrance even bearing the name of its founder. This Spring-Summer 2025 show, held under a dazzling glass canopy, marked both a reunion and a chance to dream anew, enveloping the audience in a sense of flight and freedom. CHANEL’s deep connection with the Grand Palais, strengthened since 2005, continues to flourish with this presentation.
The show centered around an evocative open aviary, a nod to Jean-Paul Goude’s iconic short film L’Oiseau de paradis (or L’Esprit de Chanel), where Vanessa Paradis famously portrayed Coco Chanel’s canary for the legendary Coco perfume. Paradis, now a longtime CHANEL muse, appeared front row in a stunning floral silhouette, reminding everyone of her enduring link to the brand.
Without an artistic director since Virginie Viard’s departure last June, CHANEL’s Creative Studio took the reins, crafting a collection that feels both liberated and nostalgic. Movement is the defining element, with 76 ethereal, airy silhouettes that exude freedom and elegance. As the show notes expressed, “The collection serves an idea and pays homage to women like Gabrielle Chanel, who liberated themselves from society’s gaze that weighed them down.”
This season, CHANEL celebrates women who have broken boundaries, from pioneering female pilots to the Garçonnes of the Roaring Twenties, embodying the spirit of emancipation. Aviator jackets, coach suits, uniform dresses, and flowing gowns draw inspiration from these fearless women. The little black dress, integral to CHANEL’s history, appears in sensual, transparent fabrics and neo-crinoline styles. Pastel-toned tweeds and chiffon capes embellished with vibrant feathers add a touch of whimsy to this ode to female empowerment.
This collection, designed by the Creative Studio, continues CHANEL’s narrative of celebrating powerful women, paying tribute to those who have shaped its legacy, from Gabrielle Chanel herself to modern muses like Natasha Poly and Mariacarla Boscono.