Copenhagen SS24 Fashion Week Chronicles
Fashion month has officially begun. Copenhagen Fashion Week brought the fashion world a whirlwind of new collaborations, inspiring designs, and moody weather. With the rest of SS24 shows beginning in just a few weeks, we wanted to take some time to reflect on our favorite moments and trends coming from the Danish capital.
Ganni: A Collaborative World
We couldn’t start our roundup without mentioning our favorite brand and Istanbul’s heartstopper, Ganni. The show was full of thought-provoking collaborations that pushed Ganni’s collection to the next level. For starters, the show was designed alongside Ai artist Cecilie Waagner Falkenstrøm, creating AI-infused graphic garments for the new season. Set in a forest-like background, the show began with Paloma Elsesser debuting her collaborative collection with Ganni, the look featuring innovative draping styles with a perfect winter-spring transitory shade of purple-red.
As the collection proceeded, more collaborations began popping up – nine eyewear styles made with Ace&Tate, as well as bright yellow New Balances with a Ganni flair – all gracing the runway, a natural expansion of the Ganni universe. The pieces core to Ganni’s visual identity, including florals and contrast-stitched jackets, have all been re-imagined under Ganni’s Fabrics of the Future program, an initiative to partner with start-up fabrics organizations to get Ganni to their goal of 50% absolute carbon reduction by 2027.
3 new fabric innovations were shown during the SS24 collection, though it might have been challenging to notice them all. Plant-based olive leather alternatives graced jackets, all made from waste streams from olive oil production; plastic-free bio-sequins from seaweed and agriculture waste were found along Ganni’s eye-catching florals; and circulose® by Renewcell, a new product utilizing textile waste, were featured throughout the show. Once again, Ganni shows us the magic that comes with inspiring collaborations and designing for the future.
Paolina Russo
Hosting their first ever CPHFW show, the London-based duo behind Paolina Russo, Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, infused Copenhagen with the strength of the new generation. After launching in 2021, the pair focused on natural dyes, futuristic innovation, and folkloric tradition to create a label filled with Y2K inspiration fit for anyone. A 2023 LVMH Prize finalist, Paolina Russo SS24 focused on the notion of a strong, but soft, female warrior — with a complementary scene of models navigating around large stone structures, the brand’s highly technical knitwear and print-heavy meshes certainly brought their vision to fruition. Pinks, yellows, blues, and greens graced a variety of materials, from denim to mesh, that at once evoked tension and harmony.
Stine Goya
This season Stine Goya invited us to her doorstep in Copenhagen, presenting an intimate and personal collection that captivated the world. Celebrating the joy of the day-to-day quotidian life in Copenhagen, the SS24 ‘HOMECOMING’ collection sees Stine Goya referencing her early years as a designer while simultaneously paying homage to Denmark. Classic Stine Goya florals and bright colors are further reinforced this season: the show began with vibrant pinks, bold and abstract florals, and a unique quilting pattern that adds texture to the already-bright pieces. The show proceeds with a slightly more serious tone, featuring full-body denim sets and a number of perfectly-tailored blue-gray dresses. Yet, through it all, the models circled around a dinner table set by the residents of Stine’s street where the show was held. Reinforcing the importance of the home as an emotional anchor, Stine Goya’s SS24 offers a new interpretation of what belonging means, and how to show it through one’s clothes.
A. Roege Hove
Knitwear and a lot of skin don’t traditionally go together — but Amelie Roege Hove wants to challenge that. Inhabiting the in-betweens of really simple and really elevated, the brand’s knits contorted to each model in a unique way, invoking our imaginations for new ways to layer, all while looking ready for whatever the universe has in store.
The show also featured a teaser of the brand’s forthcoming collaboration with heritage Danish jewellry house Georg Jensen; pieces with tiny silver beads and necklines that bloom up around the face worked to illustrate the contrast between the two materials. Yet, they all work together to accentuate the simple complexity of A. Roege Hove’s identity.
Continually pushing knitwear in new, unexpected ways, A. Roege Hove teaches us a lesson in simple dressing, made for everyone.
Munthe
“We want attendees to depart feeling enriched and inspired,” remarked Munthe’s founder Naja Munthe. Munthe’s SS24 did exactly that: from whimsical prints to bold stripes to lace detailing to moody sets. Set in front of the historic courtyard of Kuglegården in central Copenhagen, the show reinforced Munthe’s ethos of creating pieces married to the work of female artists. Prints from Heather J. Chontos and Aline Gaiad were fused into woven pieces, patchwork denim, and intricate jacquard work.
These small details, combined with a dedicated collaborative spirit, led to a visually captivating show. Our favorite elements included black leather-like lace, floral-print sets, oversized blazers, and unorthodox layering.
