London Fashion Week Curated Highlights from SS25
Buckle up everyone next stop: London
London Fashion Week is back, marking an incredible 40 years at the forefront of the fashion industry. As one of the “Big Four” fashion weeks (alongside New York, Paris, and Milan), London has always been synonymous with cutting-edge design, rebellious creativity, and pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be.
SIMONE ROCHA
Simone Rocha’s latest show at London Fashion Week is a bold continuation of her unique blend of masculine and feminine energy, a hallmark of her evolving narrative. With her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Rocha moves beyond her Victorian trilogy and delves into an intimate examination of perfection and the creative process itself.
The collection’s first part presents an unfinished elegance, where half-dressed models showcase garments mid-production, offering a raw look into the artistry behind each piece. The designer experiments with asymmetry, using oversized sleeves, mismatched cuts, and layered textures like tulle and ruffles to emphasize the beauty of imperfection. The juxtaposition of sheer lingerie and structured outerwear highlights this tension between form and fluidity, reinforcing her dark, whimsical aesthetic. The inclusion of men in shimmering hot pants and delicate florals subverts traditional gender norms in an unexpected yet playful way.
In the second half of the show, Rocha uses pink carnations as a transformative motif. The floral details bloom across the collection, taking on sculptural shapes and adding an ethereal quality to translucent gowns and statement denim. Her third collaboration with Crocs brings a playful yet elevated twist, featuring everything from rhinestone-encrusted platforms to furry ballerina flats.
By dissecting her creative process and infusing it with elements of “Fear, Fun, Control,” Rocha challenges our perceptions of beauty and gender, all while showcasing her masterful ability to combine high fashion with everyday elements in fresh, boundary-pushing ways. The collection, much like her past work, feels rooted in an otherworldly narrative—one that reflects both fragility and power.
16ARLINGTON
Marco Capaldo reintroduced a newfound lightness to 16Arlington’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, aptly titled “The Heat.” This season, the womenswear lineup embodies a carefree spirit, with a youthful and wild energy expressed through sunset hues. Inside London’s Royal Academy, the atmosphere mirrored this radiant vision, as Diptyque’s floral fragrances filled the air, and biodegradable confetti floated through the space, adding to the collection’s dreamlike movement.
The show opened with glowing shades of yellow, casting a warm glow across lightweight trench coats, fluid pencil skirts, and tailored, belted dresses featuring contrasting collars. The collection seamlessly blended elements of edgy coolness with sultry allure, as leather moto jackets revealed metal-plated bras underneath, while sheer tanks and suede trousers paired with red snakeskin handbags brought an animalistic vigor to the runway.
16Arlington didn’t just bring heat—it wrapped it up in texture and contrast. Monstrous fur coats combined with barely-there hot pants delivered a sensual punch, while the brand’s signature feathered frocks evolved into lively fringe, swaying seductively on formal evening gowns. Feathered details also appeared in gradient hues, blooming from sheer and beaded skirts to sequined ensembles that pulsed with sex appeal.
“The Heat” for SS25 captures a sense of liberation, with designs that embrace freedom, sensuality, and the captivating glow of a summer evening. Capaldo’s vision speaks to a bold, confident woman ready to bask in the warmth of her own radiance.
BURBERRY
Daniel Lee’s latest Burberry collection, showcased in the Brutalist lobby of London’s National Theatre, beautifully merged fashion with art and architecture. The choice of venue, inspired by Gary Hume’s earlier work “Bays,” created a dialogue between the industrial past and the present runway. Hume’s return to his iconic tarpaulin pieces, originally made from lorry covers, brought a sense of history to the show. His contribution wasn’t just logistical; it enhanced the mood and setting, reinforcing the blend of art and fashion that Lee sought to evoke.
Lee’s focus on the “lightness” of Hume’s work translated into his collection with effortless, early-2000s-inspired pieces. Cargo pants, coated capes, and sequinned dresses, all in playful lilac, green, and terracotta hues, felt youthful yet sophisticated. The Burberry check, a symbol of the brand’s heritage, was reinvented with fresh energy, used across belts, bags, and footwear, with the shoes standing out in particular.
Outerwear, a Burberry hallmark, saw new life with trenches and parkas featuring plush collars and a relaxed, casual feel. The overall collection captured a modern, laid-back elegance—a nod to London’s unique fashion sensibility. Daniel Lee continues to prove himself as a perfect fit for Burberry, this being his strongest collection yet.
JW ANDERSON
Jonathan Anderson’s latest JW Anderson collection conveyed a sense of “strictness” and refinement, rooted in a deliberate limitation of materials. By focusing on a select few—silk satin, cashmere yarn, leather, sequins, and lace—Anderson crafted a collection that was both minimal yet full of visual intrigue. This controlled approach allowed him to explore “modern prettiness” in his distinctive, offbeat manner.
The collection’s silhouettes were sharply defined, with mini dresses featuring trompe l’oeil prints of casual hoodies and sweatshirts. These playful, unexpected elements merged everyday staples with high fashion, creating a unique juxtaposition. The standout silhouette, however, was found in the exaggerated flared skirts made of leather or silk satin, giving the collection an architectural feel.
Knitwear, another area Anderson continues to push boundaries in, appeared in oversized weaves and chunky, argyle-style dresses, lending texture and dimension to the otherwise sleek collection. Anderson emphasized the need for a more focused direction in fashion, reflecting his attempt to “narrow” things down and predict the trajectory of the coming decade.
A subtle intellectual layer came through in the use of prints, featuring text from a review by British art critic Clive Bell of the Bloomsbury Group. This nod to the intersection of art and design highlighted Anderson’s continued interest in intellectual discourse and modernity. For him, it wasn’t about the essay’s content but the visual power of text on a white page, a reflection of the collection’s fresh, modern aesthetic. The clean, graphic simplicity of this motif further reinforced Anderson’s vision of “starting afresh” and looking toward the future.
KNWLS
We are at the iconic halls of old Central Saint Martins. Rough, rigid, gritty and drenched in Londoner aesthetics, definitely loving it! KNWLS puts London on the map with curated juxtaposition of softness and structure, blending futuristic elements with a utilitarian, almost dystopian aesthetic. The collection is a blend of avant-garde styles with practical and wearable forms layered over one another to create fashion-forward silhouettes and somehow making them feel effortless.
The collection also features the very first bridal-gowns that the brand has ever put on display. Featuring the same approach and bold seams the gowns exhibit a refined fusion of structured elegance and ethereal fluidity, with a clear emphasis on couture craftsmanship and avant-garde elements. The 37 look collection is a blend of modern minimalism, historical references, and avant-garde futurism in the most beautiful monochrome way.
HARRI
HARRI’s fifth collection at London Fashion Week marks a significant evolution in his avant-garde approach, demonstrating a newfound maturity while staying true to his signature play with latex and inflated forms. As a standout figure in the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN cohort, his Spring/Summer 2025 showcase brought his vision to life in a dramatic and apocalyptic dance at London’s Old Selfridges Hotel.
The 30-look collection captured a moody, erotic undercurrent through a restrained color palette of black, white, and khaki. Opening with an inflated latex jumpsuit, HARRI immediately set the tone with bold, exaggerated silhouettes that shined under the spotlight. Sinister horns and pointed footwear added a dystopian edge to the designs, as models glided down the runway in slow-motion choreography, blending fashion with performance art.
HARRI continued to experiment with shape and texture, as zippered suits inflated at unexpected angles, creating rounded forms that pushed the boundaries of traditional tailoring. Previously seen on artist Tommy Cash, these bold looks were paired with more delicate pieces—whimsically adorned latex dresses and hoop accents, adding a playful yet sophisticated touch to the collection.
The designer’s exploration of both menswear and womenswear felt cohesive, with armor-like latex suits and pointed skirts, proving his ability to seamlessly move between genders while maintaining a futuristic and avant-garde aesthetic. The closing looks, rendered in sheer green and burgundy latex, clung to the models’ bodies with fluidity, creating a visually captivating finale.
HARRI’s SS25 collection is a masterclass in sculptural fashion, blending inflated designs with erotic sensuality and high-concept performance. It showcases his growing confidence and skill in creating immersive fashion experiences, firmly establishing him as one of London’s most exciting emerging designers.
S.S DALEY
Steven Stokey-Daley’s womenswear debut at London Fashion Week marked a defining moment in his career. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “No Suffix, Prefix or Quote,” was a masterclass in blending historical elegance with contemporary refinement. Held at the Royal Academy of Arts and attended by the likes of Harry Styles and Anna Wintour, the show exuded a sense of aristocratic cool with 24 carefully crafted looks.
Daley stayed true to his signature style—embroidered florals, hand-beaded skirts, and medieval-inspired tailoring—while bringing a fresh approach to womenswear. His detailing, like fur-trimmed coats and crochet socks, felt luxurious yet wearable. Silhouettes balanced masculine and feminine elements, with sheer organza uniforms, warped gingham, and voluminous skirts adding depth to the collection. The accessories—fringed bags, furry neckties, and angel-embroidered crewnecks—kept the line whimsical but sophisticated.
With this debut, Daley proved his ability to translate his romantic, historical aesthetic into a modern, wearable collection, solidifying his place as a rising force in British fashion.
NENSI DOJAKA
Reporting from the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, the two-season break is over! Nensi Dojaka makes her grand return with nothing less than sheer perfection. Dojaka explains the collection as “an exploration of femininity” and handles the concept in an out of the box fashion re-painting the image of women in a vulnerable yet strong way. The feminine energy is literally oozing and draping in every look from the runway. Harnessed detailed underwear details guide our attention to the backs, hips and collarbones while sheer layers give an intimate touch of sculptural details to silhouettes. Every piece flows together to highlight the feminine figure and embody sexiness.
Also from the show notes, Calvin Klein collaboration debuts the catwalk with multi layered petal cups and featherweight knits silently wrapping over the body like a candy wrap. The collaboration further proves the point of empowering femininity with each brand adding a layer from their own. Calvin Klein’s timeless silhouettes and “highly-developed technical engineering” meets with Nensi Dojaka’s iconic imagery.
HARRIS REED
Harris Reed’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Encore,” showcased his signature flair for upcycling and dramatic design. Using vintage fabrics sourced from eBay and car boot sales, Reed transformed 19th-century curtain lace, silk damask, and tablecloths into eye-catching creations. Models strutted in halo-collared jackets, corseted mini dresses, trellised cage dresses, and panniered lace gowns inspired by antique furniture. Reed’s signature silhouettes—fish-tails, bold necklines, and sky-high platform boots—were all present, with each piece standing as a unique spectacle. Known for red carpet-worthy designs, this collection is sure to make its way to A-list events soon.
MOWALOLA
Unapologetic, fearless and sexy all over. Mowalola came to disrupt this season and she is soaring. More than just a visual spectacle the show also delivers a profound cultural statement about black movement. Presenting the brands seventh show ‘Dirty Pop’ delivered aculmination of her passions: fashion, music, and her mission to reshape narratives around the Black experience.
Covered in skin tight in latex, the collection is all about the retro-futuristic Y2K approach , handling it in a naughty way. Low-rise mini skirts come with bold textures in vibrant colors. Rough, deconstructed feel is really present with the asymmetrical patterns and unfinished edges. The chaos brings out a punk perspective, a rebellion in the form of fashion. Oh, and who could forget—Irina Shayk closed the show and the London Fashion Week in the most iconic way possible. Caution hot contents.
