Nicolas Ghesquière’s Spring/Summer ’25 Collection: A Bold Fusion of History and Futurism
At the Spring/Summer ’25 shows, individuality and intricate, offbeat beauty took center stage, and Nicolas Ghesquière, without even realizing it, perfectly captured the mood. For his latest Louis Vuitton collection, Ghesquière embraced his instinctive urge to blend the past with the future—a skill he’s finely tuned over his impressive 10-year tenure at the brand. Throughout the decade, he’s delivered everything from meticulously crafted architectural jackets to playful pop-culture pieces like Stranger Things t-shirts, creating a vibrant interplay of historical references and modernity. His experimental approach is especially significant, given Louis Vuitton’s legacy as part of the powerful LVMH conglomerate. What Ghesquière brings to the runway is not just fashion—it’s a reflection of how a historic brand can stay relevant and forward-thinking. Over time, his collections have only become more refined and thought-provoking, as evidenced by his debut Autumn/Winter ’14/’15 collection, which still feels fresh and relevant today.
Ghesquière’s goal of balancing boldness with subtlety was evident right from the first look: a puff-sleeved, intricately embroidered jacket with red and blue stripes, paired with a scarf and dangling jewelry. “What I really wanted was for these pieces to be unclassifiable,” he told Vogue Runway about the oversized, textured coats, which, at first glance, appeared heavy but were surprisingly light and summery. Other highlights included coats that floated like kaftans and sharp-shouldered jackets with sheer fabric cascading from underneath. Stretchy leggings were styled with breezy, colorful blouses that caught the eye with their bold prints and vibrant patterns.
Ghesquière’s sharp focus extended to the accessories, where fresh ideas took center stage. The standout was a comfortable yet stylish sandal-pump hybrid, while his iconic GO-14 bag was reinvented with a playful fringe of tassels. The beloved Side Trunk bag, a nod to Louis Vuitton’s history in handmade luggage, was given a modern twist with metallic chain embellishments, enhancing the collection’s handcrafted aesthetic.
While over-reliance on the past can stifle creativity, Ghesquière showed this season that history can also be a powerful catalyst for innovation. In his second decade at Louis Vuitton, one of fashion’s most versatile designers continues to break boundaries, adding yet another unforgettable moment to his legacy. His signature desire to challenge conventions was evident in this Spring/Summer ’25 collection, closing out a season where many designers opted for nostalgic comfort. But Ghesquière took a different path. Drawing inspiration from the ornate clothing of the French Renaissance—known for its dramatic collars and heavy chains—he explored one of the more intense chapters of French fashion history. This isn’t new territory for Ghesquière, who also examined the concept of ‘French style’ in his Autumn/Winter ’23/’24 collection. This time, however, the designer asked an important question in the show notes: “How do we reconcile two opposites, softness and strength?”
In this collection, Ghesquière answered that question with an intricate, daring fusion of the old and new—proving once again that he is a master at crafting fashion that resonates in the present, while offering a glimpse into the future.
