NYFW Recap Curated Highlights from S/S 2025

FashionSeptember 13, 2024
NYFW Recap Curated Highlights from S/S 2025

One of the most vibrant and iconic cities in the world, ‘NEW YORK; The City That Never Sleeps … SO CLICHE!’

New York Fashion Week officially kicks off fashion month, navigating a pivotal moment in recent seasons. While Milan and Paris have secured their status with high-profile shows and star-studded guest lists, New York remains a force to be reckoned with. The city’s fashion scene, known for its edgy, experimental vibe, continues to attract major A-listers. This year, NYFW coincided with the U.S. Open, amplifying the buzz as celebrities flocked not only to the runway shows but also courtside, creating a unique synergy between fashion and sports. Despite competition from its European counterparts, New York retains its distinctive flair, merging style, culture, and star power in its own inimitable way.

Off-White 

This season NYFW welcomed Off White Creative director Ib Kamara and Britain editor in Chief of Britain Dazed Magazine -, shifts the brand from Paris to Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 2 and transformed into massive pick up basketball court for its New York Fashion week debut. ‘DUTY FREE’ SS 25 collection blended American Sportswear with Ib Kamara and Virgils African heritage.

For menswear see utilitarian zippers, distorted denim, asymmetrical layering, and intricate iconographic embroidery, all brought to life with bold embellishments like beaming crystals. Sleeveless hoodies were innovatively constructed with zippered sections running down the torso, while varsity jackets glistened with the brand’s signage, reinterpreted in collaboration with Ghanaian artist Nana Danso. Athletic references ran through the collection, with “00” emblazoned on the backs of tops, and a standout denim coat boldly displayed the collection’s title, “DUTY FREE.” As for womenswear the sculptural and architectural silhouettes sticks balance between sharp tailoring and sensuality.  Deep V-neck dresses, fishnet skirts adorned with sequins and feathers, corseted zip-up jackets, and playful star motifs blended structure with a touch of whimsy, embodying Off-White™’s avant-garde edge.

Luar

Lopez’s latest collection captures the tension of growing up in New York, torn between the expectations of his Latinx heritage and his personal journey of self-discovery. Reflecting on his adolescence, he recalls shapeshifting between identities—trading stiff button-downs for platform sneakers and eyeliner as he navigated between his family’s world and the freedom of the ballroom scene.

Through fashion, Lopez channels the resilience required to survive and thrive in New York’s intense atmosphere. His designs echo primal instincts of protection: double-breasted coats feature oversized sleeves and hoods, knit dresses stretch into head-enveloping shields, and big-shouldered trench coats and bulky tracksuits serve as wearable armor. This collection is both an homage to his journey and a celebration of the power of self-expression in the face of adversity.

While Lopez’s collection explored themes of protection and survival, it also embraced the confident, statement-making style Luar is known for. Reflecting his present-day self-assurance, many looks exuded power and were designed to be noticed. Shimmering black suits gleamed with a wet-like shine, formalwear was crafted for dramatic movement, and coordinated workwear sets boldly proclaimed the brand’s identity. Models exposed through sheer button-downs and shorts, paired with thigh-high leather boots. Adding to the luxury, gold-hued Ana bags adorned with playful charms—part of a high-profile American Express collaboration—brought an extra touch of opulence to the runway.

Proenza

The collection opened with a bold lineup of semi-structured square-shaped tops that draped effortlessly over the body, offering subtle flashes of skin with a scarf-like elegance. These were followed by oversized shirt dresses and airy asymmetric styles, printed with delicate black and white florals that perfectly complemented the brand’s signature New York-inspired aesthetic. Drawing on nautical influences, floor-length knit dresses and skirted twinsets in bold marinière stripes made a statement, while button-front sailor pants paired with boxy sleeveless tops and fitted captain jackets added a refined, maritime touch.

For formalwear, Grecian-style pleated gowns in soft organza and chiffon came in a muted palette of ivory, navy, black, red, and lilac—ideal for a yacht-bound wardrobe. On the edgier side, leather dresses with irregular slashed hemlines and plenty of fringe brought a punk-ish, modern twist to the collection, balancing the feminine and rebellious.

To ground the looks, rubber ankle-grazing shoes and sturdy calf-high boots, designed in collaboration with Sorel, added a utilitarian touch, while PS logo trainers offered a more casual, everyday option. Whether for a leisurely walk in Central Park or setting sail, the collection delivered versatile, fashion-forward footwear to match its adventurous spirit.

Willy Chavarria

Willy Chavarria’s SS25 runway show, titled América, took place at the iconic 23 Wall Street, a fitting venue for a collection centered on resilience, diversity, and unity. Blending his Mexican-American heritage with a broader commentary on America’s evolving identity, Chavarria once again used his platform to spotlight underrepresented voices. The collection seamlessly combined bold fashion with activism, continuing Chavarria’s tradition of using his work to challenge norms and celebrate the rich cultural fabric that defines the nation. The first half of Willy Chavarria’s América show spotlighted his signature workwear, with wide-leg trousers, structured suits, high waistlines, and oversized leather jackets, blending utility with bold style.The show culminated with Willy Chavarria’s reinterpretation of the classic adidas Jabbar sneakers, which made a highly anticipated comeback earlier this year. Originally designed for NBA legend Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, Chavarria’s version featured creamy leather uppers with a sleek, modern vibe. The standout detail was the ultra-pointed toebox wrapped in velvety suede. The sneakers were offered in three striking color schemes: tonal black, cream, and white with blue accents, blending heritage and high-fashion effortlessly.

Ronald van der Kemp

The looming American election has made its mark on this season’s New York Fashion Week, with even international designers like Ronald van der Kemp weaving it into their narratives. Known for his sustainable couture, van der Kemp made a bold move by relocating his 10th-anniversary show from the Paris haute couture schedule to New York. Through a collection that fused activism with high fashion, he spotlighted sustainability and global responsibility, reminding the industry that the future of fashion—and the world—demands action now.

The collection opened with a bold lineup of semi-structured square-shaped tops that draped effortlessly over the body, offering subtle flashes of skin with a scarf-like elegance. These were followed by oversized shirt dresses and airy asymmetric styles, printed with delicate black and white florals that perfectly complemented the brand’s signature New York-inspired aesthetic. 

Wiederhoeft

Wiederhoeft’s latest collection, “Dearly Loved Children and Warriors of the Living Breath,” masterfully explores how fashion shapes both body and identity. The show opened with a model seated under a spotlight, wearing a white dress with silver accents, setting the stage for a dramatic procession of signature Wiederhoeft designs—floor-length gowns, corsets, and mini dresses adorned with crystals, sequins, and bow motifs.

As the show climaxed, a group of Wiederhoeft brides in corseted white ensembles and long veils took center stage, introducing the label’s new corset collection, which offers 60 sizes. In a poignant moment, the opening model remained alone as the lights dimmed, symbolizing the collection’s themes of transformation, both temporary and enduring.

With this collection, Wiederhoeft reflects on the body’s relationship with fashion, showcasing how garments can both shape and liberate the wearer in meaningful, lasting ways.

Sandy Liang

Sandy Liang has made it clear: Spring/Summer 2025 is all about the spy girl. The New York-based designer returned to the runway at Lower Manhattan’s Altman Building to present her first collection since becoming a mother, and the result was nothing short of whimsical. Liang’s signature hyperfeminine aesthetic took center stage, with a playful reimagining of a satin-clad secret agent stationed in Soho. True to her detail-driven approach, the collection fused sleek intrigue with her unmistakable feminine charm, creating a world where espionage meets everyday elegance.

This season, Sandy Liang delivers looks for every moment—whether it’s something polished for work, casual enough to hop on the subway, elegant for a piano recital, or cozy for a night at the movies. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is all about versatility, offering pieces that you can live in and build your own world around. Liang’s woman is a secret agent of her own life, always prepared for whatever comes her way, even if it’s just keeping her own secrets.

Prabal Gurung

At Prabal Gurung, diverse cultures and bold optimism collide in a powerful tribute to color and celebration. For Spring/Summer 2025, Gurung draws inspiration from the Hindu festival of Holi, known for its exuberant display of love and color. Holi-inspired splatter prints adorned flowing, elegant silhouettes, while sari pants were reimagined in denim wool, and sari gowns took on a Grecian twist, merging tradition with modernity.

One standout look, inspired by Vice President Kamala Harris, featured a white minidress embroidered with beaded coconuts and “coconut paillettes,” layered under a sleek khaki trench coat and paired with strappy heels. The piece, both playful and sophisticated, carried a sense of power and individuality

Collina Strada

The ever-quirky, vegetable-loving designer Hillary Taymour used this season to remind us to reconnect with what grounds us—literally. Taymour’s message for the American public to “touch some grass” came to life as cartwheeling models with grass-stained hair extensions strutted the runway in floppy hats, fluttering sleeves, and even pushing lawnmowers. The Green Lady of Brooklyn made an appearance, lizard bag in hand, leaving everyone in attendance with a smile amidst the playful chaos.

Author: Birce Naz Köş

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