Saint Laurent FW25 Men’s Goes Thigh High

Isn’t there a quiet rebellion somewhere deep within the essence of being classic? In the Saint Laurent FW25 universe, we are confronted with the stubborn nature of doing things your way, embracing individuality, and turning yourself into a signature. Drawing inspiration from the silver screen, the house this time weaves Robert Mapplethorpe’s visual world into the identity of the collection. Amidst dramatic, dim lighting, Bourse de Commerce—and within it, a Saint Laurent that is sharp, resolute, and entirely in its own element.

The attitude toward gender forms remains dominant in this collection. Sensual masculinity merges with feminine shapes and soft textures, creating a striking contrast—something we are already familiar with from Saint Laurent’s last show. Yet, the collection remains in a predictable frame; Anthony Vaccarello doesn’t stray too far from the box. And the big news of the season? Leather fisherman boots.

Still, sometimes the ordinary can be genius, and this collection is a prime example. Vaccarello sharpens office wear into its sleekest, sexiest form, making you ask: “Is the office a sexy place now?” With an attitude unmistakably rooted in YSL’s DNA, these looks carry the same weight as a thick, full-bodied cigar. Wide-lapeled, waist-cinching, impeccable leather coats nod to Mapplethorpe’s iconic Polaroid self-portraits, where his almost-trademark black leather jacketbecame a defining element. The show notes emphasize how ostentatious feathered coats and double-breasted jackets take on an entirely new meaning when paired with leather boots. “Menacing, seductive elegance” is how they describe it—hard to argue with that.

The venue keeps the drama minimal, leaving space for the show to unfold. Golden crystal chandeliers lining the runway reference the Intercontinental Hotel ballroom, where Saint Laurent presented its Haute Couture collections between 1975 and 2001. A grand yet understated tribute, fittingly placed. Not much else to say—there isn’t much that demands interpretation, really. The whole thing leans into surface-level detailing, making it feel less like a fully realized collection and more like a last-minute runway save. It’s either a sign of a more instinctive approach to heritage—or a signal that change is on the horizon. Who knows?