Acne Studios unveiled its SS25 collection in a stark white room that showcased an array of colorful sculptures, retrofitted from various household objects, created by Philadelphia-based artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase. The collection exuded a sense of magnification and expansion of form, expressed with emboldened softness, through lines of raised shoulders, puffy tailoring, and extra wide waistlines.
The show kicked off with a stunning beige ensemble, showcasing one of the most minimalist looks made in lightweight, skin-toned fabrics that exude a sense of bare beauty. The presentation then took an incredible turn, with surreal puffed-up tailoring that was simply breathtaking. A gray two-piece suit with reptilian embossing stood out as a particularly eye-catching piece. Then, sculpted full-bodied jeans and skirts were followed by smooth structured leather sets, which together had the feel of rubber clothes fashioned for miniature dolls—a truly unique and imaginative touch! Later, chunky knits and oversized checks appeared as if they had been digitally augmented to a larger-than-life scale, adding a bold and striking visual element to the collection. On some looks, exaggerated busts and shoulder straps protruded from the models, creating a similar feel to paper doll dress-up books—a playful and nostalgic reference that brought a smile to my face!
As the show drew to a close, pieces embellished with matching knotted scraps made a dazzling appearance, evoking the distressed woolen knits that had graced the runway earlier in the range. Alongside the fun, playful references to toy fashion, the models wore bold, vibrant outfits with an untamed use of pattern and asymmetrical styling. It was as though they rushed out of the closet, tying different garments into make-shift gowns, and the energy of the show was electric!
Much like Chase’s painted furniture and decor strewn about the room, the collection speaks to the ways that personal objects become imbued with human identity in the most inspiring way. Bringing the spirit of childhood play to Paris, the overall presentation read as a sincere ode to uncompromising self-expression—and it was a joy to behold!