Olivier Rousteing’s Spring Summer 2025 collection for Balmain was a masterclass in blending heritage with forward-thinking innovation. Revisiting elements from his early days under Christophe Decarnin—think sharp shoulders and intricate detailing—Rousteing delivered a show that both honored Balmain’s storied past and carved a path toward its future.
A signature moment of the evening was Rousteing’s dedication to inclusivity, a hallmark that has defined his tenure at Balmain. Models of various ages and backgrounds graced the runway, reflecting Rousteing’s ongoing commitment to diversity. The classic French marinière stripes, inspired by his Bordeaux upbringing, wove through the collection, reinforcing Balmain’s deep ties to French fashion history.
However, this season’s true revelation was Balmain’s official leap into the beauty category. Building on the success of the Les Éternels fragrance line, Rousteing integrated beauty elements directly into his designs. The runway showcased dresses, jackets, and shorts adorned with face imagery, meticulously crafted from hundreds of thousands of pearlescent beads, echoing the house’s new beauty packaging. Models strutted with fragrance bottles in hand, seamlessly merging fashion with beauty.
This pivotal moment was punctuated by the presence of William P. Lauder, executive chairman of Estée Lauder Companies, Balmain’s new global beauty partner. The collaboration marked an exciting new chapter, blending fashion and beauty in a way only Rousteing could envision.
The show’s grand finale featured draped silk dresses in serene tonal shades, reaffirming Rousteing’s skill in honoring Balmain’s legacy while steering it into uncharted territories. The collection stood as a testament to Balmain’s evolution—now firmly rooted in both the luxury fashion and beauty worlds.